February 26, 2022
February 25, 2022
February 22, 2022
Inevitably, on closer inspection after applying pastel, there is a lot of clean-up work. Even trying to remove pastel with a kneaded eraser where I don't want it as I go along, If I hurry at all, it backfires. Also, taking a look with fresh eyes with sunlight makes a world of difference. In the picture above, the dark skin color around his eye is too sloppy for my taste.
I spent all afternoon on Sunday trying to cover and blend in the area around his eyes using acrylic paints. I was waiting on an art supply order to do his white markings so I also started painting his eyes. Not happy with them yet. I think they're too dark and I lost his eye whites somewhere along the way.
February 19, 2022
After airbrushing the basecoat, I found a few specks and tiny (cat) hairs in the paint, which I carefully sanded out with 1200 grit sandpaper. Then using the same paints I used for his basecoat, I mixed up fresh paint and blended the colors in.
Then, I sealed Rebel in Krylon matte finish to seal in the paint before adding pastels. There are mixed reviews on using Krlyon sealer, but I've only had a couple bad cans over the years. I shake it for several minutes before using it on the model (and hold my breath that I don't have any problems). I spray outside (or in the garage if it's NaMoPaiMo and it's snowing outside), then let the model dry in the basement, which is not as cold as the garage, but still far enough from people that we're not breathing the fumes.
For the first layer of pastels, I mixed some earth pigment light yellow ochre and Pearl Ex sparkle gold. I applied this with a soft Pastel Smoothie all over. Then I mixed up another batch of the same colors and added in earth pigment dark yellow ochre. This I applied over the first layer of pastels where I wanted it darker. I then sealed with Krylon matte and let dry. I generally don't use color formulas. I usually figure it out as I go, but maybe if I did a better job of keeping track of which colors I used I might be able to fine-tune the color formulas I like. I have struggled to find light pastels/pigments for buckskins and palominos that I really like. I think I'm liking these.
Next, I used Pan Pastel 820.3 neutral gray shade for the skin tones with a small paintbrush and micro brushes. I checked all over and lifted stray gray pastel off with a kneaded eraser (I do this whenever I add darker pastel, and almost always miss some, grrr!) Then I used my golden color mixes, as well as Pan Pastel white to highlight, deepen and blend the head and body color. Sealed with Krylon matte and let dry. It is easiest to with pastels to build up color from light to dark, but the white Pan Pastel is actually decent at lightening an area, which is great for blending around the muzzle and eyes.
Layer 3 I started with a Sennelier pastel in a burnt sienna shade, not sure which one as the label is gone. I used this on his legs. I checked all over for errant color, then I did a little work on his muzzle and added more of the golden shades to try to get rid of some grain that was showing up in the dark areas. Sealed and dried.
There are a wide variety of pastel sticks out there to choose from. I've used Derwent, which are pretty hard and don't scrape easily. Sennelier and other soft pastels are very nice. You can scrape them to mix colors, or rub the pigment directly on your brush and then directly onto the horse. Generally, the higher quality (more expensive pastels) will give you a better result as the pigment content is better.
Layer 4 was more of the same, to build up color and eliminate grain, and adding black to his legs, muzzle and eyes. Things are really starting to come together, though he's ending up a little less "buttermilk" buckskin that I planned.
Layer 5, 6, 7 just adding black to his legs and using some of the golden mixes to try to blend it in.
February 13, 2022
Confession: I am totally intimidated by the airbrush. I tend to procrastine airbrushing, a lot, but it's NaMoPaiMo and there is no time like the present.
February 11, 2022
Prepping is a very time-consuming process with lots of filling, sanding, priming, drying, filling, sanding, priming, drying, repeat ad nauseum. When you introduce epoxy work to your model, getting a feather smooth blend where the plastic (or resin) meets the epoxy is just one more challenge. It's helpful to keep sanding and prepping as you are customizing, which I've tried to do. And just when you think you're done, you find something else to tweak.
February 4, 2022
Lots of figuring it out as I go. I find much of the creative process is problem-solving. Since I haven't made interchangeable manes and tails before, this is taking longer than I hoped!
I started out by covering up his neck and tail with plastic wrap. Then using a tip that Kylee Parks shared in her BreyerFest making manes tutorial from a couple years, I squished SuperSculpey into the crevices of his braids so that the epoxy is sitting a little on top of the braids. Then added another layer of plastic wrap.
Using some fine mesh made for sculpting, I started shaping all the various manes and tails.
Shaping them over the model.
Next I mixed up some epoxy.
And squished it into the underside of each form, trying to use as little epoxy as possible.
Next I wrapped the magnets in fresh epoxy and let them stick into place.
Then I pushed the mane/tail form into place.
For his short mane, I was able to keep going and work on the top of the mane.